Friday, September 13, 2013

South Luangwa and the Hungry Elephant

A roadtrip in our home is something that is both highly anticipated and slightly feared. With Jett being all of 15 months old, we know the likelihood that the screaming to contentment ratio strapped into a car seat will likely tip in favor of the former. Even with great preparation of exciting new snacks, fuzzy books, loud musical instruments and chewy toys, there is only so much a small one can weather in his car seat at one time.

But the draw to get away with friends, to explore and to see new things made us sign up for a 5 day excursion to South Luangwa Game Park in Southern Zambia. We met the Woods family in Blantyre and began our caravan trip to Zambia.

"Are we there yet...?" Benson whined... (1 hr into a 12 hour trip)...it seemed too early to start saying, "almost, just a little while" so we made a map, and drew destination points that we could check off along the way, and even threw in a few 'African' directions that could be checked off at any moment, like "man on a bicycle", "by the big tree with the broken limb", "where the dirt meets the road", "when you see rats on a stick" ....but the real check points started from:

HOME - Makwasa
Blantyre - to pick up the Woods
Balaka - to greet the friendly and always hungry policemen.
Dedza - where Mommy wishes she could stop to SHOP at the pottery shed...(groans from my male dominated car)
Lilongwe - our Captial, fuel filler, and closest to a real traffic jam in Malawi.
BORDER - get through and breathe
Chipata - gateway to South Luangwa
CROC VALLEY - arrival at our campsite in South Luangwa, everybody stretch and cheer!!


Camp set up on the bank of the Luangwa River, Zambia

Now that we are three years into the transition of our pre-family "small", "cool", "I'm a hardcore outdoorsy type of bloke" REI, NorthFace super elite (did I mention) "SMALL" tents to the GIGA TENT (that could accommodate 12), Ryan managed to pitch it with little embarrassment and relatively no fuss. This was a proud moment for me to watch the daddy of three boys set up camp and embrace the growing family and all that entails.

We enjoyed a meal together and bedded down for the night, hopeful for the game viewing in the morning.

Instead of the usual ocean noise maker sound, Jett fell asleep to the crackling of a camp fire and the bellowing of resident hippopotamus.
Also, the campsite boasts close proximity to real size game and we woke at 3am to the snorts and crunching of two elephant.

The boys love game park vacations, and part of the reason is the freedom of not having to be buckled in. So corralling them into the car in the morning was an easy task and we were rewarded for our efforts to go early with giraffe, puku, impala, hornbills and elephant right outside our camp.


(Haytons and Woods families at the Park Gate)
Checking in at the South Luangwa Game Park front gate almost feels like going to Disneyland. Loads of excitement and wonder. Except, they don't have maps (because their photocopier has been broken since 2005) you don't know what you will or wont see and the Lion rarely give autographs and don't like to snuggle.

Passing over the bridge the car is tense, 5 and 3 yr old boy eyes searching for the first game spot (which would be just as exciting to them if it was impala or leopard) and Mommy and Daddy wondering if early morning leopard sighting might occur at the rivers edge...In our car, the first person to spot game gets HUGS and KISSES!! Now, there's some incentive. In fact, when the prize is dished out, the others that didn't 'win' often can be heard saying, "but I wanted the hugs and kisses today..."



Huddy viewing the Elephant

The Woods' truck in the park


Taking a break overlooking Hippo and Crocs

Lots of hands to help little boys from falling off the edge!

Herd of Buffalo...Lion must be close..

Jett likes control

Who me? 

good travelers and game spotters

"dere, ohhhhh" Jett got into it all

looked like the elephant was dead in front of the chalet. But he got up and moved on...

lots of giraffe! Such a fun animal to watch

right outside our camp

We head out of the park in the early afternoon after enjoying the animals, navigating the roads (with no map) and swatting tetsy flies with great dedication.

Our Croc Valley campsite is right on the rivers edge and we relax there while getting ready for a night drive from 4-8pm. However, eating a meal at Croc Valley camp requires the full attention of everyone present. oh, and a slingshot if you have one... The monkeys and baboons are ruthless, quick, not easily intimidated, and ready to steal your food at any moment! Not very relaxing to eat your pasta meal when your garlic bread might be stolen before your first bite! Benson and Hudson were sentinel guards of the food, although at 5 and 3 often getting distracted by pursuing the monkeys further than they should...so it was good to have back up power of Marquelle and Janelle Woods...

The night drive at South Luangwa is one of my favorite things in Africa. The open-air vehicle gets you really close to nature and the golden hour turned dark is particularly exciting. Especially when you're on the look out for the Big CATS. With Duncan, our driver and Manfred our spotter, we were confident we could have a good drive.

In the gleam of the car spot light, Marquelle spotted a snake crossing the road and we stopped to find it was a spitting Cobra. Duncan grabbed some pebbles off the ground and threw it at the snake, which reacted and flared up showing us his hood and fire!
Safari vehicles were circling the tracks in the park, all hopeful to find the cats. With a tip from one of Duncan's fellow drivers, we circled back to the river area and found a placid leopard gracefully laying down just meters from Puku. What a marvelous creature!

The Woods' and Huddy ready for the game drive

Minus Hudson who is with his aunties

can you say, "Luangwa!?"

love to safari with Ryan

heading over the river

keep your eyes peeled!! 

my snuggle bug

High Five Uncle Dave!!

check it out!

the sunsets here are glorious!

at break time in the park, buffalo watch on.

we call him FTJ (full time Jett)

Spitting Cobra (Photo Dave Woods)



Sabbath was our day of rest at camp. However, we did manage to extend ourselves to chase monkeys and kill small snakes...




at Croc Valley Camp

right on the river bank

great place to enjoy nature

Sunday, early morning start. PJ's still on, coffee in hand, breakfast in the car. Enter the game park just after opening. Will there be any cats for viewing today we wonder? After a tip off from a thoughtful driver we found a pride of 18 lions. Arriving to their rest station relatively early, we found they were still active and alert. The Mommy lions were moving around trying to locate the ultimate shady real estate, while the cubs were focused on nursing and cuddling with their mommies and aunties. A herd of zebra stood close by, almost provoking the lions into a chase. When two young male zebras began to battle, the lionesses took off...but returned without a kill.

Several vehicles came and went and we spent about 3 hrs watching the pride, entertaining three wriggly boys and apologizing for accidental honks on the horn to very un-amused safari goers...As we were leaving Benson stated, "I'm so tired of lion, lion, lion...I don't want to see another lion all day!" ok, that should be easy to do buddy.

lovely sighting

another beautiful sunset

these guys are cool

look who's 'lion' around under the tree....

not a bad view

not bothered by us at all....

Benson found the Lion page and showed it to the pride...

Pretty close by...

this was an 'awwww' moment

ooops!! honk honk!!

something looks interesting over there...

ready to pounce!

got nothing...

still sticking around....

The Woods viewing Lion


I think was taken when Benson was all done with the Lions.... (Photo Susan Woods)

Luangwa traffic...

Hudson Rye

Beautiful birds

sorry B, we wanted to go back to check in on the pride...

plum tuckered out!

gorgeous giraffe

elephant crossing the river
 Since we no longer needed the night drive to see the cats, we decided to have a haystack supper under our camp site gazebo and watch the sun set. Ryan took all three boys for a walk, while Marquelle and I began the dishes, and Susan, Dave and Janelle were under the gazebo packing up the left over supper.

Two meters from Marquelle and I, the night watchman started making funny 'tskkk tskkk' noises and pointed to the figures of three elephant crossing the security lights at the far end of camp. I thought, "wow, how cool...wildlife viewing in our own camp!", then I saw the Mommy Elephant moving at a pace, and thought, "oh my, not so cool, that elephant is headed straight for our gazebo and our family!" we rushed over to raise the elephant alarm, but she was already there, tucking her trunk under the low hanging straw roofed hut and hunting for food - our food! Susan (very calm) sorted all the left overs into coolers and we took them away to the restaurant area and got us and the food to safety.
She brushed her trunk on our vehicles and seemed to contemplate poking her tusk through the window to explore the inside. All our snacks (including peanuts and oranges) were still inside the car. Usually we move all food to the camp lock box after supper, but we hadn't finished yet!

Empty trunked, the elephant and her babies left our camp.

We rushed around taking all food out of the cars, cleaning up the gazebo and the Wood's trailer which was our camp kitchen. And then we put all three boys to sleep in the tent.

The coals from the fire were hot and beckoned us to sit down and draw in the warmth. The hot wind of the day turned into a cool breeze at night and it felt good to curl up under a few blankets.

The tent was quiet and the peace a parent feels when all children are asleep overcame us. Ahhhh, chill time.

But then, the elephant was back! And moving swiftly, she headed straight for the food gazebo of fellow campers. They had just served their dinner of lasagna, veggies, rice and bread and the elephant hoovered it all down. She was not dissuaded by the banging of pots, honking of horns, or twenty campers yelling at her to leave! She trumpeted and stamped her feet and we all knew to back off. The food was hers. She claimed 5 loaves of bread and rattled around inside their car trailer helping herself to sugar, fruit and any vegetable of her choice. This elephant was having a field day.

The camp owner came out with a shot gun. Watching from our hut, we heard him say, "Ill just fire a warning shot in that direction..." pointing exactly at us, and our tent with our 'sleeping' boys. We yelled out, "We are over here, DON'T SHOOT!!! Please DON'T SHOOT!!" Then I heard Ryan (who was in the mess with the other campers just meters from the elephant) telling the owner, "my family is there, please don't shoot" . By this time the boys had woken and wanted to see the elephant. They said, "is someone going to use a gun!?" Marquelle, Janelle, Susan and I grabbed the boys and rushed to the main building where all the other campers were gathered. We just sat and watched as Mommy elephant ravaged the food hut and vehicles of the other travelers. At one point she sauntered back to our camp brushing against our cars and tents. I was so grateful that our boys were out of the tent and safe.

Elephant raiding the back of the truck (photo Dave Woods)

Elephant in camp (Photo Dave Woods)

jack pot! Sugar, bread, veggies...(photo Dave Woods)

Ryan way too close...(photo Dave Woods - which means Dave was too close as well!!)

Forty Five minutes later the Mommy elephant and her babies left our camp. As we put the boys back to sleep (again) Ryan asked them, "When you are a big daddy, and your boys want you to tell them a story about when you were a little boy, do you think you have something exciting to share?" They both lit up and chatted back, "oh yes Daddy. When I was a little boy, a hungry elephant tried to steal our supper. But she didn't get it. And when she came back, we didn't get shot. But then someone else decided to share their food and so she left."

On the dusty road out of camp, we saw a Mommy elephant and her two babies. And we all just had to smile.

Thank you God for your goodness. For your beautiful and wondrous creation. And for your almighty protection.





6 comments:

Unknown said...

Awesome! What amazing memories.

Jody said...

Wow - you had an eventful trip! I wish we could have seen you while you were here. We miss the Majete Elephants - they were much more respectful of kitchens.

Chrislyn said...

wow! what an adventure! Such awesome animal and family pictures! Your boys are growing up... i need to keep reading your blog... so fun. :)

Sharlene Hayton said...

Definitely!!

Sharlene Hayton said...

Haha! And yet the Zambia elephants have never charged us the way the Majete ones do - eeesh!!

Sharlene Hayton said...

Thanks Chrislyn! It's been years since you were with us but we still miss you!! Xxx